My trip to Dar Es Salaam_Tanzania
Geoff Wells (Medicine)

Arrival

We arrived in Dar after many hours flying.  The weather was hot and humid and our first introduction to Tanzania involved making our way through the hustle and bustle of the airport

Alpha was ready and waiting to meet us just outside the exit, and was very welcoming.  We drove back to Oyster Bay via taxi, during which time he answered any questions we had and showed us many of the sights as we drove along the coastline.  As it was a Sunday not all of the house staff were around, but we were shown to our rooms and then given a tour of the house.   

House

The house is big, with a large eating area, big kitchen with basic amenities, lounge, and a few bedrooms.  Outside the front is a porch area with 2 sofas.  The mosquitoes tend to like this area of an evening, but it is usually nice and cool and a quiet place to relax at the end of the day.  We made friends with the local geckoes, which were more than fascinating to watch as they stalked bugs around the lights.  We had our Kiswahili lessons out here 2 to 3 afternoons a week with Mr Johnson, who speaks 4 languages very well!  Each lesson lasts an hour and is very relaxed.  He likes you to think for yourself what it is you want to learn, and aims to equip you with a basic understanding of the language.

Our rooms were large, but in total there were only 4 of us staying there at any one time, so we all had a bedroom each.  There are 6 bunk beds in each room, and one ceiling fan.  My advice would be to bag the bed directly under the fan, as the evenings can be very warm and humid.  Also, if like me you are greater than 6 feet in height, you will have to sleep diagonally to fit on the beds - I worked this out after a few nights!!  There is a bathroom with shower for each bedroom, plus wardrobes and your own safety deposit box (you need to supply your own small padlock)

The swimming pool was amazing, bigger than the pictures suggest.  So nice to swim when it is hot.

A few tips about the house:  There are plenty of sets of scrubs, a whole cupboard full so don't worry too much if you can't find any to bring out.  The same goes for white coats.  In the lounge there is a wall of cupboards.  Inside these are a few boxes of medications (anti-emetics, oral rehydration sachets, painkillers, loperamide) just in case you need them.  Also there is after-sun, sun screen, insect repellent which many of us have left behind for future students to use as a back up.  Plenty of novels left behind to read.

The house chef is Rehema, who is an absolute legend.  She will cook anything you like, and is good at picking up on those things you mention in conversation.  Everything is home-made, and she is able to cater for many needs.  She is also happy to teach you how to make chapatti, ugali, biscuits etc if you ask.

Rashid is the housekeeper, and is one cool cat!  He is very relaxed and is good to chat to.  Mad about football.  He is also a very good source of information about places to go in and around both Dar and Zanzibar.  He has a very good local knowledge and is only too happy to help you organise weekend trips away etc.    

Amana Hospital

This is the smaller district hospital, and is a 1 hour dala-dala ride from one of the main bus pick-up points situated 15 mins walk from the house.  Alpha will go with you for the first couple of trips until you know where you are going.  Each way costs 250 Tanzanian schillings, which is about 12 pence.  They are good fun, but just make sure (as you would in any city) to keep your bags/wallets in a safe place at all times, where you can be sure nobody could access them without you seeing.  We didn't encounter any problems.  If you are white, a lot of people will stare at you, not out of rudeness, but just because they do not see many white faces.  On the whole, Tanzanians are friendly, but are just curious.  We made friends with one or two of the conductors who tried to teach us more Kiswahili! 

The hospital is basic.  Many of the beds have torn sheets and very basic amenities.  Be aware that the healthcare system is very different to that of the UK, resources are scarce, and priorities are not always the same as ours.

Paediatrics

I spent 2 weeks with Dr Doulla, Consultant Paediatrician.  He has exceptional knowledge and sets a high standard.  He spent 2 years working in Japan, so he knows what can be achieved with good knowledge and hard work.  He includes you on ward rounds, and asks plenty of questions.  He welcomes you to clinic too.  We also joined the ward rounds with the local Tanzanian medical students, who are friendly and approachable.  You can also attach yourselves to the intern doctors, who will impart their wisdom and let you observe and examine patients.

Internal Medicine

After paeds I went to internal medicine for two weeks, under the supervision of Dr Digna.  She is lovely and explains each case with you when she is on the ward.  Again the resources are scarce and patients must pay for all their medicines.  If they are unable to pay due to being poor, confused, or alone (ie. No relatives around) then they cannot be treated.  This was hard to accept during my time on the ward, and quite often the intern would pay for some of the drugs / a bag of normal saline etc.

Zanzibar

Definitely worth a visit.  I went twice, once to Stone Town with its many winding lanes full of shops just teeming with people trying to sell you stuff.  If you like the challenge of bartering, you can get a few bargains.  Most items will start off at twice the price you ought to pay (Mzungu price "tourist price").  My second visit was to Kendwa rocks in the north.  Beautiful golden sand and beach huts.  Nice and relaxing.  Also went on a spice tour which Rashid organised for us.  You are just asked to give a donation at the end (plus you are offered things to buy on your way around).  This is great fun, and you get to see where your spices grow, and what they really look like.

Central Dar/ Kariakoo Market/ Bongoyo Island

Central Dar is busy, much like any other city.  I personally found it a bit daunting as you are generally the only white people around.  It is frantically busy in places, and you have to watch your pockets. We went to Kariakoo market with Rehema.  It is amazing, and she seems to know everyone there.  Very, very busy, lots of spices, fruit and veg, materials etc.

Bongoyo Island was where I spent my last Saturday.  There is a 40 minute boat from Slipway which costs around 25,000 shillings (£12) return I think (which includes the marine conservation fee), plus extra for a big sunshade, sun loungers and grass mat when you get there.  It is beautiful, like a picture postcard.  Make sure you get a sunshade as there is little natural shade, and you can easily burn.  Take a packed lunch and plenty of water too if you can although you can buy refreshments on the island.